Inside the world of ultra-luxury wedding cakes / Photo: Thomas SAMSON - AFP
Inside the world of ultra-luxury wedding cakes
Competing for attention with Jennifer Lopez is no easy task. But at a recent wedding in India where the American star performed in a barely-there sparkly leotard, it was arguably the cake that stole the show.
The towering multi-tier construction, several metres high and inspired by Rajasthani architecture, became a talking-point among guests and featured prominently in media coverage of the 500-guest extravaganza last November.
Its designer was French celebrity pastry chef Bastien Blanc-Tailleur, whose creations are to cakes what Haute Couture is to fashion: one-off, hand-made, and requiring extraordinary investments in time and money.
"We rarely work on a wedding that has a budget of less than a million euros," the 34-year-old told AFP in his studio outside Paris, surrounded by five of his latest edible sculptures.
The marriage ceremony of billionaire heiress Netra Mantena and tech entrepreneur Vamsi Gadiraju last November in Udaipur cost a reported $6.7 million, with J-Lo said to have pocketed two million for her appearance.
Blanc-Tailleur declines to reveal prices, saying only that his most modest custom-made cakes start at 20,000 euros ($23,500) and the elaborate signature pieces can cost multiple times that.
The Indian order comprised five cakes in total: the main creation with tumbling orchids, elephants and dome-shaped pavilions in white sugar-paste, and then two more cakes for the families, as well as another pair which were lowered from the ceiling.
They took an estimated 3,500 hours of work.
"We probably hit the top limit of what we're capable of," Blanc-Tailleur explained, adding: "It was one of the projects that I'm the most proud of."
- Challenges -
Blanc-Tailleur's artistry, which he says draws on French traditions dating back to the 1700s which then spread to Britain and America, depends on the patronage of wealthy clients around the world.
Middle East royals, wealthy American scions and European aristocrats compete for his limited services: with a full-time staff of only 10, he can only produce about 20-25 cakes a year.
The US and Israeli attack on Iran on February 28, which has sparked a regional conflict encompassing much of the Middle East, has upended the well-laid plans of some of these customers.
"Lots of weddings have been pushed back to next year or the year after," he told AFP.
"Several clients who were going to get married in Israel or in Lebanon or in Saudi Arabia have changed and are going to get married in France instead," he added.
In the eight years since he started his business, he's had other challenges: the Covid epidemic in 2020-21, as well as problems transporting and finishing his fragile cakes at the ultra-VIP castles and hotels that serve as venues.
Logistical issues at the Indian event last November meant Blanc-Tailleur faced a last-minute dash to source eggs and butter for the cake's base.
"Right up until the last-minute we were not sure we were able to deliver the project in the best way," he explained.
On another occasion, an over-zealous customs official in Saudi Arabia opened the specially designed boxes used to protect the cakes in transit, but neglected to close them properly, causing damage to the icing.
- No limits -
Blanc-Tailleur started out as a baker's apprentice before still in his twenties rising into kitchen management jobs at the prestigious George V hotel in Paris and the team of celebrated French chef Yannick Alleno.
He says he retained a key lesson from Alleno, the holder of 18 Michelin stars at his various restaurants.
"He used to say that when you're thinking about a project, you shouldn't think about how you're going to do it. Otherwise, you limit yourself in the creative process," Blanc-Tailleur explained.
His designs are drawn by hand on white card -- he disdains AI and ultra-realist renderings that remove the joy of discovering the final product.
A compulsive collector -- of butterflies, seashells, stones and carvings from fleamarkets -- Blanc-Tailleur estimates he has about 2,000-3,000 different moulds to help make prototypes and the final icing mouldings.
"The flowers are the bit that take the most time," he says, with roses, orchids, even hydrangeas all made with hand-sculptured layers of icing to match a moodboard provided by the wedding planner.
With so much energy-intensive work and international travel -- he attends the weddings of most of his clients -- Blanc-Tailleur has little time for himself.
"I've been engaged for four years," he confides, with no date set for his own marriage.
Ch.Anderson--EWJ
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